Life's A Peach

Last Sunday, Cathie and David came for dinner. I was under no illusion, this was not going to be a sober affair. We worked our way through a four course dinner and perhaps too many bottles of wine, including a wonderful Margaux and a bottle of Montrachet (my favourites).

We started with some Rhubarbellinis, if they already exist then I am sorry for copying but it was a moment of sheer genius, I am rarely excited by a Bellini these days (spoilt, moi?) but I love rhubarb and prosecco – so hey presto! I cooked a stalk of rhubarb in a pan with the juice of half a lemon and some icing sugar, I say some as I kept adding it to sweeten the rhubarb and thicken the cooking liquor. Once the rhubarb is stewed, mash up with a fork ensuring you get rid of all of the lumps; it should be pulp like in consistency. Allow to cool and put a heaped teaspoon in the bottom of a champagne flute. I happened to have some Rhubarb Liqueur (a decadent purchase Cathie and I had made a month ago in the airport) and covered the rhubarb puree in the delicious liqueur and top of with very chilled prosecco. Class in a glass!

The menu I selected is very seasonal and was to try and impress my very well fed guests....and no David, this is not in retaliation to your comment on how my peachy wedding posterior had become a little more sizeable since (I am better than that, my friend), more as they eat very well and decadently of a weekend! I also wanted to challenge myself a little, I don’t want to become entirely complacent!


Crab Bisque with Crab Beignets

First we had Crab Bisque with Crab Beignets. I was a little hesitant to give you yet another crab recipe, but I love the stuff and I even managed to engage my crab hating husband into loving this little beauty. I struggle with some crab bisque recipes or eating it in restaurants as it can be so taken over by tomato and sometimes even carrot that, the sweet crab flavour is lost.

The crab I had acquired was superb. We went to a wonderful wedding the weekend before on the Isle of Wight and watched two of our dear friends tie the knot on the beach in Ventnor. The only reason I had heard of Ventnor before was because of their infamous offering of my favourite shelled friends. It didn’t disappoint. Most of the crab was eaten naked (not me) with a little watercress, but I saved some and froze it and made some wonderful crab stock from the shells which I also froze and used for this dish.

This dish will serve 6 people as a good starter or more if you skimp on portions, which would be totally acceptable as it’s so rich. I serve it in a teacup, because it looks pretty. For the crab bisque aficionados, this is far from traditional, however I assure you, you will like it.

Heat a large knob of butter in a heavy bottomed saucepan and gently fry 4-5 shallots, 2 sticks of celery until soft. Add a tablespoon of flour and cook for a minute before adding 100ml of Marsala wine and cook off on high heat for a minute before adding 1 litre of crab stock or good quality fish stock. Then add 250g of mixed crab meat (both brown and white). Cook for a few minutes and add a small handful of chopped tarragon. Blend until smooth with a hand blender and add 150ml of double cream and season well with Maldon Seat Salt and freshly milled black pepper. You can make this in advance and reheat later, I always do this. If you are not using this on the same day, please do not add the cream on that day, most cooks do not advise you to add the cream until almost serving, it is my preference to add it and then allow to cool and gently reheat later.

The Beignets

Now for the Crab Beignets, these are delicious. A beignet is a crispy fritter made from choux pastry, a little like a doughnut...these little bites of crab taste like heaven. I have to say this recipe is not mine, but courtesy of James Martin. He can keep his crab bisque recipe though. Sorry, James.

To make the beignets you are making a choux pastry. Start by boiling 125ml water and 50g diced butter together in a heavy bottomed saucepan. Take off the heat and add in 75g plain flour all at once and beat quickly until the flour is incorporated and the mixture comes clean away from the sides of the saucepan. Ensuring the mixture is warmed through (you may need to return to the heat for a few seconds) but not on the heat, crack in two free range eggs, one at a time, beating well so the egg is well incorporated into the dough. Add two tablespoons of white crab meat and three tablespoons of brown crab meat into the mixture and season well with Maldon Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Heat vegetable oil in a deep heavy-based frying pan or in a deep fat fryer if you have one.  You will know when the oil is ready by dropping a breadcrumb into the oil, once it sizzles and turns brown when dropped into it, its ready. Now is the time I need to remind you to take caution as hot oil can be dangerous. Do not leave unattended and always have adult supervision. I had my husband to watch over me.

Drop teaspoonfuls of the beignet mixture into the hot oil in batches and fry for 2-3 minutes, or until the beignets are crisp and golden...yumdiddlyumcious. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside to drain on kitchen paper. Repeat with the remaining beignet mixture until you have used it all, warning, you will not be able to stop eating these!

To serve, place two to three of the crab beignets into the centre of each teacup (or bowl) sprinkle over some finely chopped tarragon and any leftover white crab meat (I have usually eaten it). I pop the teacups onto the table and pour the crab bisque into a big milk jug and serve the bisque at the table by pouring into the teacups.

Chilli and Tarragon Soda Bread

Last week I made a chilli and tarragon soda bread – but it’s not entirely necessary. If you want it here is the very easy recipe (it’s mine not James’). Without sounding too contrite, I always have buttermilk in the fridge as if we want bread for soup or a sandwich, this traditional Irish staple can be read within 45 minutes. I have placed chilli and tarragon in today, but usually I just make it plain. You can use any herb you wish. Place two finely chopped chillies with a handful of chopped tarragon into a large mixing bowl. Add 325g plain strong bread flour, 2 teaspoons of caster sugar, 2 teaspoons of Maldon Sea Salt, 1.5 teaspoons of bicarbonate of soda and combine well and make a well in the centre. Add 1, 284ml pot of buttermilk into the mixture. Mix quickly with a fork; you may have to use your hands. If you find the mixture is too wet add a little more flour or too dry, you can add a little milk. Place on a lightly floured baking tray and place in an oven preheated to 190oC for 35 minutes. You will know this bread is cooked when it’s hollow to tap.

I followed this taste sensation with Roasted Marinated Leg of Venison, Baked Onions with Gruyere and Kale with Lemon. This ended with a little Tiramisu and a lovely cheese plate (and more wine). I will be here all night if I try and write out all of these recipes and for fear of not getting the blog out for another week or sleeping in for my 6.30am training session (my attempt to reclaim the peachy heights of last December) or better/worse the presentation I have to do at 9am (I can only dream of a reason not to get up for these delights) then I will have to pass these on another time.

Give this a go the next time you have good friends over for dinner, they will love it, guaranteed. Serve with a very chilled white wine, a white burgundy would be nice if you don’t like a more floral Viognier. We took it to the max and had a Montrachet, which would have been lost had we had more chilli bread, but it was perfect. Life is good. Life is a peach, unlike my backside...;-)

No more crab for a while (I promise, hubby).

For now...x